Zane came in from the surf puffing rapidly. He took his board up and put more wax on it then went down for another wave. He came back up and lay on his towel for a while. He was thinking of his mate Jay. Jay is a little eight-year-old who has cancer and Zane goes surfing with him sometimes. The last time they went surfing was about a year ago. Jay had to go to America to see if the doctors over there could cure his cancer. Zane often thought about him and wondered if he was better yet. He got up and went home.
Zane got up early and headed for the beach but as he walked out the door of his apartment the phone rang.
"I don't give a shit!" and he kept walking.
He walked down the sand to the water edge and took his shirt off.
"The swell is big today. I should go and get my... Oh Fuck it!"
He ran in with his board and started paddling out where the good waves were. When a good barrel came he started paddling faster and then he stood up and surfed it in.
Jay popped into his mind again as he walked out of the water back onto the beach. Zane sat on the beach for awhile looking at the crashing waves. He thought about Jay again and wondered when he was going to come home to Australia. He got up and walked home.
Zane wasn't hungry so instead of eating his tea he got a pen and paper and began to write;
Hey mate, it's Zane. I miss you heaps. I wish you were here with me right now. We could go surfing together like we used to. It was great fun wasn't...