Essay by macadousesUniversity, Bachelor'sA, October 2005

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Every summer since I moved from California to Ohio I've gone back to California to surf and visit my family. This summer wasn't any different I left in early in August for a 3-week vacation. When I arrived at LAX airport I was picked up by my brother and drove to his house, which is 15 minutes away. As soon as I arrived at his house I showered, than started the 2-hour drive through traffic to my aunts house in Laguna Beach for a family party.

After hearing that there was a strong south swell on its way to so cal I loaded up my boards and headed north to L.A, L.A. is only about 30 minutes from Malibu, where I grew up. Malibu also has a few of California's best surf spots. Malibu Point which maybe one of the most famous and crowded surf breaks during the day there is likely to be 100+ people out.

There is also a beach called Little Dume which can be equally as good as Malibu but isn't as well know or as crowded as Malibu Point.

The swell was expected to hit on Tuesday peak on Wednesday and be gone by Friday. I woke up early Tuesday morning and went to Little Dume expecting some sizable surf. I was disappointed. the swell hadn't arrived yet. I surfed for a few hours and went home. My brother was home from work, after I told him the swell was a little late he got this crazy idea that we should go surf Malibu point at night to avoid the crowds of people there during the day. We checked the tide and to position of the moon and decided to leave around 10pm.

When we arrived it was easy enough to tell the swell had...