Essay by PaperNerd ContributorCollege, Undergraduate November 2001

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Bury me deep in the clear blue sea / Where the crashing waves will spray o'er me / Where my soul will rise with the rising sun / And be surfing still when the day is done." This was a poem written by Ron Drummond from the article "Endless Summer" (77). Surfing is a way of life. Surfing in is in many ways a search for that one moment with being one with the wave. Surfing might be a sport to one person, a relaxing activity to another but surfing to most surfers is a way of life.

According to Encarta Encyclopedia surfing is the sport of riding waves with the aid of a board. A surfer usually rides the tapered hallowed out board and rides the front of a breaking wave. The surfer changes direction by shifting his weight to the side of the board. There are many different types of waves.

Rideable waves can come in a variety sizes ranging from 1 foot to 30 ft (1). The bigger the wave the faster you can go on the board. As surfing became a popular sport the waves the board became lighter. Opposed to the hundred plus lbs. boards that were made out of hollowed out trees, the boards became sleeker and were composed of new inventions like Styrofoam and fiberglass (1). Southern California has become the center for moderate wave riding with over 40 public surfing beaches. But the best surf comes from Hawaii where the waves are screaming for surfers.

Surfing is probably one of the oldest sports around. It is so old that surfing origins cannot even be traced. From the "meles" (ancient Polynesian stories passed down from generation to generation) there is evidence that links surfing as a widespread sport 1000s of years ago (Dixon...